Steak de Burgo, in its original non-creamy version, is hardly unique to Des Moines. It is pretty much what Greeks in Mason City called Greek steak. The Northwestern Steak House in that town has served it by that name for more than 100 years. It is also pretty much the same thing as “bistec de tenerna” in Catalonia and Valencia and "bistec con aoili" all over the Mediterranean.
What is unique is its name, preserved only in Iowa but carrying origins that are nearly 100 years old. During the Spanish Civil War, Catalonia and Valencia were the provincial strongholds of the Republicans. The Loyalists, who prevailed, were based out of Burgos. After their victory, “Caudillo for Life by the Grace of God” Franco ordered references to Catalan and Valencian things purged. Olive oil-based culinary dishes needed new names in Barcelona and other Republican areas. Burgos, a dairy center, was as far from Barcelona as anything, politically and culinarian. So, names, but not recipes, were changed temporarily and ironically.
The intermingling of European refugees in the Francis Avenue neighborhood brought several Republican families to Des Moines. They brought the Burgos deceit to public awareness. Both Johnny Compiano and Vic Talerico lived in the Francis Avenue hood. Those are the two men who are credited for the first steak de Burgo in Des Moines. Both were Calabrese men married to Modenese wives — open-minded magnets for the cornucopia of ideas in the melting pot of Francis Avenue.
The dish by the name “de Burgo” sprang from that north Des Moines hood. Ironically, the name “de Burgos” has not been used in Spain since Franco died in 1970. In Des Moines, it is still gospel, even when dairy products are used in a further irony.
Probably off-topic, but frightfully romantic is Burgos' most memorable feature — a creepy canopy over the main square and the riverfront of oriental plane trees, manipulated by centuries of human grafting and pollarding (a type of pruning) to look like a giant web to heaven, or hell, all winter after their leaves fall.
Deals today • Art Horgan, "acoustic crooner," plays free tonight at One Eleven Public House (111 East Main, Knoxville), 6-8 p.m. It is also steak night.
• Waterfronts have an Alaskan halibut special this Wednesday.
• Sale Barn's (Lamoni) special today is fried chicken with corn casserole.
• Paula's (Elm Street at 6th, Valley Junction) has a Wednesday Cuban sandwich special.
• Crouse Cafe (115 E. Salem, Indianola) has smoked pork chops on special today.
• G Mig's (128 Fifth St., Valley Junction) offers a Wednesday special beef braised pork cannelloni, plus salad and garlic bread for $19.25.
• Price Choppers offer $.88/pound squashes, honeycrisps at $1.49/pound and frozen tilapia at $4.99/pound. |